250" lift, you’re going to get a lot more out of the cam’s potential than you are with a stock head. 500" lift but a properly ported head flows 68CFM at. But, consider this, when the stock head flows 68CFM of water at. Some shops that like to push selling camshafts because there’s no work involved or they don’t have anyone who can actually port the head properly will tell you to just buy their cams and have them do a valve job. You’re going to get a performance gain from even the mildest drop in cam. What's important in that matter is how you intend to realistically ride the motorcycle and how large you’re making the motor. If you want considerable power gains, absolutely you should have the head ported. Welding the pins simply prevents the counter weights from slipping and throwing the crank out of index. Then you know it’s good….no guess work. The condition of the connecting rods and main bearings has nothing to do with welding. Once the crankshaft is in your hands, for a couple of hundred dollars, you can have it inspected and welded. Split the cases and inspect everything in the bottom end. There’s only one smart move when considering a performance build. If it’s going to see the drag strip regularly, then yes, absolutely. However, the old standby answers held water 30 years ago when the bikes were still relatively new should be taken with a grain of salt. That depends on what you’re going to do with the bike.
How big can I make the motor without larger sleeves? If you pay attention to the information provided here, you can get the most bang for your buck and have a strong running Kawasaki as the end result. Money comes hard for most people so spending it wisely is always preferable. This information is intended to help people make wise, cost effective decisions. The answers come from a lot of years of experience with these bikes. Here’s a list of common questions with answers related to KZ900 / 1000 engines. The forum is gone and luckily I saved the FAQ and am reposting it here for the KZ community. KZ1000 J thru R & KZ1100 A B D models.Larry Cavanaugh’s website used to have a forum and he had a useful FAQ page. Mikuni 34mm BS34 Carburetors, Complete Rack of Fits these Kawasaki models without any modifications, 73-80 Mikuni VM28 Carburetors, Complete rack of Usedġ974 Kawasaki Z1-A. Models without any modifications, 73-80 Kawasaki Z1, KZ900 & KZ1000 models. Used Mikuni VM26, 26mm carburetors from a 1978 Kawasaki KZ1000. Mikuni VM26SS Carburetors, Complete rack of Used Set of 4 required.įor 29mm Mikuni smoothbore carburetors - VM29. To clean the small holes in these jets, use the wire from a twist-tie, it worked for me. If gas is leaking out of the float bowls: you may either need new bowl gaskets and/or a float needle & seat (Float Valve Assy). The air screw jet normally wears the quickest. Normally, carburetor jets are not needed unless they are worn. Kit for Mikuni 26mm thru 29mm carburetors.Ĭarburetor (Mikuni) Rebuild Kit with JetsĪdd to Cart $29.99 each, 4 sets recommended Replace those rusted, missing or stripped screws with a stainless-steel Replaces OEM #220B0416 for Z1, KZ900 & KZ1000 models from 1973-1980.Ĭarburetor (Mikuni) Top, Mixing Chamber (cover) - 12pc Phillips Screw with Lock Washers Replace those rusted, missing or stripped screws with a stainless-steel kit for Mikuni 26mm thru 29mm carburetors.
Four filters required for 4 cylinders.Ĭarburetor (Mikuni) Float Bowl - 16pc Phillips Screw
MIKUNI BS34 CARBURETOR FOR KZ1000 PLUS
Kawasaki Z1 KZ900 KZ1000 H2 plus more models.ġ6038-016 O-Ring, Main Jet Cover (float bowl drain screw)Īir Box (air cleaner body) not available for KZ900 orįits: 26mm - 29mm carburetors, Z1 KZ900 KZ1000. (29mm or 33mm Mikuni smoothbore carbs) for Yamaha & Kawasaki up to 1980.įloat Pin Mikuni Brass Float Assembly Pin SU002-605 - Fits: 1966-98
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